How to drink vermouth like a local in Madrid

By Nicole Indovino

As a food and wine guide in Madrid, I like to start my tours with a vermouth. This can make my guests nervous as their minds go to the Italian ‘Martini Rosso’ or the French dry vermouths we splash in our martinis. But in Spain, vermouth (or ‘vermut’ as the locals say) is so much better than the aforementioned, and is not just a drink but a tradition or ritual for many. 

What is Vermouth?

To put it simply, vermouth is an aromatized, fortified wine. It begins with a neutral, white wine base that is then fortified with a distilled grape spirit up to 15-18% alcohol. And then comes the creativity. The mixture is macerated with herbs, botanicals, and spices such as chamomile, citrus peels, thyme, and cinnamon. Vermouth can have up to 30 different ingredients and every producer has their own unique touch or secret recipe.

Once the vermouth has steeped for long enough, it’s sweetened with a dose of caramel to balance out the bitter, citric, and herbaceous flavors to become a delicious well-balanced drink. It’s often served over one or two large ice cubes and garnished with an orange slice.

History and Cultural Roots in Madrid

The Italians introduced vermouth to Spain in the region of Catalonia in the early 19th century. The locals quickly adopted the drink and started to impart their own style, adding more sugar for a sweeter taste that can be enjoyed on its own. Spanish vermouth often has a lighter and brighter profile compared to the bitter Italian vermouth. Think more citrus, less spice. By the early 1900s the drink was a staple in bars throughout the country, easily popularized by the social, ritualistic, and hedonistic nature of Spanish culture. 

However after Franco’s death in the 1970s, vermouth fell out of fashion in Madrid. The younger generation and the “Movida Madrileña” rejected the traditions of the older generations and opted for beer and wine which were considered more progressive and modern.

However, a recent shift towards artisanal, nostalgic pleasures has seen vermouth regain prestige among younger Madrileños in the recent decades. Mixology, eating and drinking locally, and renewed appreciation for heritage flavors have all contributed to this renewed moment of vermouth culture.