By Cecile Aguillaume
Take A Walk Through Switzerland’s Most Unexpected City
When people think of Zurich, they often picture pristine banking halls, orderly trams, and high-end shopping. But beneath its sleek, modern surface lies a city rich in quirky stories, revolutionary history, and a surprising soulfulness. Join me as we explore Zurich through some of my favorite places—some grand, some humble, all deeply human.
A Cat Named Monty, Not a Dog Named Hachiko
Unlike Edinburgh’s Greyfriars Bobby or Tokyo’s Hachiko, Zurich’s most beloved animal isn’t a dog—but a cat named Monty. For over a decade, Monty was the unofficial guardian of Zurich’s Old Town, gracefully weaving his way through narrow alleys, lounging in shop windows, and greeting locals and tourists with quiet confidence. When he passed away in 2018, the city mourned him like a legend.
To honor his memory, a small statue was placed in the heart of the Niederdorf, just a few steps from where he used to patrol. It’s a modest tribute, but one filled with love. Monty wasn’t just a cat—he was part of the neighborhood’s rhythm, a gentle presence in a city often associated with precision and reserve. His statue reminds us that Zurich’s charm often lies in the unexpected.
Lenin Slept Here—and Dined at the Odeon
Most people are surprised to learn that Vladimir Lenin lived in Zurich. From 1916 to 1917, the Russian revolutionary found sanctuary here, renting an apartment on Spiegelgasse 14, just a few minutes’ walk from the Landesmuseum. You can still see the plaque marking his residence today.
Lenin wasn’t just hiding out—he was writing, thinking, and frequenting some of Zurich’s liveliest spots. He was known to spend hours at Café Odeon, a legendary gathering place for intellectuals, artists, and political exiles. There, over coffee and conversation, he watched the world change and helped plan a revolution. The cafe still exists, and sitting under its Art Nouveau arches offers a direct line to Zurich’s vibrant, subversive past.
Zurich, ever neutral, quietly sheltered thinkers of all kinds—from Lenin to the Dadaists who were just down the street at Cabaret Voltaire. This small city accommodated big ideas, and still does.
Colonial Echoes in a Land Without Colonies
Switzerland never had overseas colonies—but this doesn’t mean it was uninvolved in colonial economies. Quite the contrary. From Zurich’s bankers to its universities, the country’s wealth was historically entwined with colonial ventures, slave economies, and imperial finance. A walk along Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s famous luxury shopping street, becomes more complex when you consider this. At the heart of it stood Credit Suisse, now defunct in its original form, with its sign recently removed—a moment many of my Context guests found strangely symbolic.
We pause in front of the empty building and talk about how nations remember (or forget) uncomfortable pasts. This isn’t a typical stop on most Zurich tours, but it always leads to deep and honest conversations. Just the same in the Niederdorf, where some murals and inscriptions show views of the world that we don’t accept anymore.
From Zurich to the Stars: Einstein’s Journey
Albert Einstein’s name is forever linked to Switzerland. He studied at the ETH Zurich (Swiss Federal Institute of Technology) and later taught there. Between his time in Bern and Zurich, he formulated the theory of relativity. You can stand outside ETH and imagine the young physicist walking up those steep streets, late to lecture, a mind bursting with ideas.
ETH remains one of Europe’s, and even the world's, premier scientific institutions, but it’s also a beautiful spot to take in the view: from the Polyterrasse, you can see over the rooftops of Zurich’s old town all the way to the Alps. It’s the perfect place to pause and let the weight of thought—Einstein’s or your own—settle gently.
Halle Giacometti: A Cathedral of Color in the Most Unexpected Place
Tucked inside Zurich’s police headquarters is one of the city’s most breathtaking artistic treasures: the Giacometti Murals. Painted by Augusto Giacometti (uncle of the famous sculptor Alberto), the entrance hall of the building glows with vibrant frescoes in reds, golds, and deep blues. The murals transform what would be an austere space into something between a chapel and a dreamscape.
Visitors are often stunned—why is this hidden in a police station? Perhaps because Zurich often hides its treasures in plain sight, trusting the curious to find them. (Note: check the hours and dates of the free tours necessary to access the facility.)
Heimatwerk and Changemaker: Two Sides of Zurich Shopping
No visit to Zurich is complete without a dive into its local craftsmanship. For this, Heimatwerk is the perfect stop. Located just a few yards off the Bahnhofstrasse, it showcases Swiss artisanal work—from hand-woven textiles to traditional wooden toys. It’s a refreshing antidote to globalized luxury retail.
For something more contemporary and ethically conscious, head to Changemaker. This concept store curates products that are fair trade, sustainable, and socially responsible. It’s where design meets values—and the perfect place to pick up gifts that tell a story. Zurich’s consumer culture, like its identity, can be both traditional and forward-looking.
A Swim in the Limmat: Zurich’s Soul in Summer
Zurich’s summers are something else. When the sun is out, the whole city heads to the river. The Limmat, which flows through the heart of town, is clean enough to swim in—a fact that astonishes many first-time visitors. From the women’s-only Frauenbad at Stadthausquai to the lively Oberer Letten with its diving platforms and riverside bars, swimming is not just allowed—it’s celebrated.
For locals, jumping into the river is a declaration of joy and freedom. As I often tell my guests: if you truly want to understand Zurich, bring a swimsuit. The Limmat is the city’s most democratic space—young, old, rich, broke, tatted, suited—everyone floats together.
The Chinese Garden: Serenity by the Lake—and a Walk Through Art
Just a walk past whimsical sculptures and public art installations, you'll find that the mood shifts completely at the Chinese Garden, a serene lakeside sanctuary gifted to Zurich by its Chinese sister city Kunming. It’s one of the best-preserved examples of a classical Chinese garden outside of China, with pavilions, bridges, and poetic inscriptions that invite quiet reflection.
From there, take a few steps toward one of Zurich’s most striking architectural surprises: the Le Corbusier Pavilion. Completed after his death, this vivid structure of glass and metal is the last work conceived by the great modernist. It’s a beautiful and unexpected punctuation mark at the edge of the city—a place where East Asian tradition and European avant-garde design stand just minutes apart, each offering its own vision of harmony.
Bonus: A Bit of Practical Magic—Trains and the Constitution
For American travelers, I always offer two parting insights:
First, about Zurich Airport: it's efficient, well-connected, and just ten minutes from the city center by train. It hosts one of the 2 subways on Switzerland between the terminals.
Second, about Swiss trains themselves: they are punctual, clean, and a joy to ride. If you’re continuing your journey across Switzerland, start at the central station (Hauptbahnhof) and let yourself be carried across cities, mountains, lakes, and vineyards.
And finally—a little-known fact that never fails to delight American guests: the Swiss constitution was directly inspired by the U.S. Constitution. In fact, Switzerland is considered the second modern democracy after the United States. The two countries, despite their contrasts, share a deep belief in federalism, civic participation, and the rule of law.
Zurich isn’t flashy. It doesn’t clamor for attention. But it rewards those who look beyond the surface with wit, history, and soul. Whether you’re contemplating the past outside Lenin’s house, marveling at Giacometti’s colors, swimming with strangers in the Limmat, or simply petting a statue of a cat named Monty, you’re in a city that quietly changes you.
About Cecile: Cécile is a Swiss historian with a passion for her country and the diversity of its regions. After having worked in the watchmaking industry for more than 20 years, Cecile decided to share her love of Switzerland to its visitors. She will be able to reveal all of Zurich's secrets to you. Always on the lookout for new things, she is happy to share hidden gems and give you her rigorous and enlightened selection of activities, itineraries, and favorite places, revealing her personal Switzerland. Walk like a local in Zurich, discover the shores of Lake Geneva, and all the secret and well-known places in Switzerland.
